Day 13 - May 28 - Wieden + Kennedy - Tokyo

Day 13 Photographs

Wieden + Kennedy

At Wieden + Kennedy the group had a wonderful discussion with Blake Harrop and Caleb Jensen. 

On Monday, the group had another treat in store for us at Wieden + Kennedy. We met with Blake Harrop and Caleb Jensen at the recently relocated Wieden + Kennedy Tokyo office. Blake compared the previous office location as that of Times Square and new office as more of a Brooklyn vibe.

After introductions, the group settled in to watch and discuss case studies on the Nike "Tokyo. Just Do It" campaign and UniQlo.

For the Nike campaign, W + K took to the street interviewing members of the skateboarding and extreme biking community. They used the group's own words and images on billboards in spaces where this community hangs out to communicate the brand.

Billboard for Wieden + Kennedy's "Just Do It. Tokyo" campaign.

Blake and Caleb explained how they aimed to create an office that was not just an extension of the larger Wieden + Kennedy but that was truly part of Japan and Japan's culture. In order to accomplish the firm needed to acquire Japanese clients.

One of the firm's first Japanese clients was UniQlo. This brand creates decent quality, stylish, affordable clothes. The brands original ads were typically Japanese, loud, aggressive and noisy in order to command attention. The problem, however, was that these commercials and ads did not present a flattering image of the customer.

W+K changed the ads to be quiet, almost silent--artful and elegant. The firm used the Japanese principals of art to create a Japanese advertisement by incorporating emptiness, space and by leaving the message slightly vague and open for interpretation.

http://theinspirationroom.com/daily/2010/uniqlo-88-colors-in-shanghai/

The creatives at W + K also gave the group some ADVICE:

•  Keep trying new things
• Keep on keeping on - as Bob Dylan would say.
• Be a sponge
• Put yourself in uncomfortable situations

They also mentioned the most interesting people are people who continue to make things, work on projects and create for the sake of creating.

Day 12 - May 27 - Kyoto to Tokyo

Day 12 Phototgraphs

Kawaii - The Cute Culture

Kawaii is one of the most used words in Japan. It means childlike and celebrates all that is sweet, adorable, pure, gentle and sweet in social behavior and physical appearance.

The popularity of kawaii is immediately apparent when you step off a plane in Japan. From billboards, bus tickets, women's dress and the charms hanging off of book-bags and purses the appeal of kawaii is everywhere--absolutely everywhere.

A stuffed maneki-neko sits in front of a restaurant.
The cat figures are thought to bring in customers.

One example is the Maneki-neko which means "Beckoning Cat." It is also known as Welcoming Cat, Lucky Cat, Money Cat, or Fortune Cat. The Maneki-neko is a common figurine in Japan which is believed to bring good luck to the owner. The cat is usually a calico/Japanese bobtail with an upright paw. The cats can have different hand or paw gestures. The most common belief is that the left paw raised brings in customers, while a right paw brings good luck and wealth.The cat is usually displayed at the entrance to shops, restaurants, parlors, and other businesses. 

Maneki-neko come in different colors and styles. In addition to ceramic figurines, maneki-neko can be found as keychains, piggy banks and miscellaneous ornaments. They usually have some sort of decoration around their neck. This can be a neckerchief or a scarf but the most common attire is a collar, bell and decorative bib. 

The bib might be related to the bibs often decorating statues of the divinity Jizso Bosatsu. Jizō can be found guarding the entrances to Japanese shrines and graveyards. Jizō is the protector of sick and dying children. Grateful parents of children recovered from illness will place a bib around Jizō as a gift of thankfulness.

Jizo Bosatsu

Kawaii characters are just not there to look cute. They also are used to help communicate helpful information to the public such as bus passes, bank cards, shopping bags and even condoms. Cuteness in Japan transcends both age and gender.

Kawaii on a Kyoto bus pass.

Companies also use kawaii to connect with customers. Japanese believe that funny mascots indicate that the business is friendly and unpretentious.

Kawaii used for corporate identity.

Japanese also have a fondness for charms and mascots to hang on their bags, purses and belt loops. Many Japanese feel that they can find a character or mascot to fit their personality. People adopt a character as a means of seeking their own identity. Wearing one of these public mascots is a way of communicating with others like themselves. There is a belief or consensus that wearing a cute mascot means you are a fun-loving, easy going person. So, if you a visitor in Japan, look for a friendly Japanese person wearing some kawaii.

Many Kawaii mascots to choose from in Japan!

Day 11 - May 26 - Byodoin Temple, Uji and Fushimi Inari

Day 11 Photographs

Japanese aesthetics have been shaped by Shinto's devotion to nature.

As noted in my previous post, Japan is a graphic culture filled with the imagery of organic shapes and natural references. This graphic imagery makes sense since the Japanese culture is in harmony with nature. It could also be a result of Japan's Shinto religion where references were abundant at Fushimi Inari. At this temple, we saw the imagery of Shinto Gods, or Kara in the manifestations of fox and lion imagery. These Kara were common throughout the Tori and the cemetery.  

One of the many fox images at Fushimi Inari.

Fox Kara fountain at Fushimi Inari.

Lion Kara fountain at Fushimi Inari.

Japanese religious imagery can be very specific since theirs is a homogenous culture with little need to modify messages or graphics for outsiders. The Japanese share a long history and as a result, most people are familiar with the cultural and religious references. It makes sense that the foxes and lions are located in Tori because of the forested terrain where Shinto Gods are thought to be present: mountains, trees and waterfalls. 

The Tori at Fushimi Inari are located in a forested area. Home to Shinto Gods.

Day 10 - May 25 - Nijo Castle

Day 10 Photographs

Graphic Japan is everywhere.

Japanese signage is graphic to Westerners due to the kanji symbols.

Blank areas of space. 

Colors eliminated or exaggerated. 

Objects reduced to the barest essentials and extra details eliminated. 

Minimal text or no text at all.

Japanes love "simple complexity." Meaning is often implied. It is up to the viewer to interpret and find meaning. Japanese do not like the obvious, they like mystery. Japanese designers view success as "making the familiar unfamiliar." 

Roof tiles are used to visually identify different temple complexes, property and neighborhoods.

Lots of Japanese design posseses the quality of emptiness.

Graphic banner hanging at the Shunko-in north gate.

Rock garden at Ryojuki Temple.

"A vessel full of something, mounted high with whatever it may be, is never as beautiful as one that is empty." Hara - Graphic Japan

Japanese believe the single flower loses its effect in a mass. In Japan economy of material and space is important. This simplicity extends into gardening. For instance, a large rock will be surrounded by a large expanse of gravel much like graphic design in the banner.

Due to the above characteristics, many Westerners find Japanese art to be abstract.

Western cultures want clarity. Communications need to be clear--the meaning explicitly communicated. This is because the U.S. is a multicultural nation with many different religions. Japan is the opposite. It is a mostly homogenous country with common religion and history. This makes communication more simple.

Day 7 - Kyoto Handicraft Center, Dinner, Laundry

Day 7 Photographs

Casey and I ventured out at 9pm one evening to do laundry and grab some dinner. As we walked through the dark and deserted Kyoto neighborhood, we remarked how safe we felt.

Kyoto neighborhood street at night.

Kyoto neighborhood street at night plus cat.

The fact that Japan is a collectivist culture could explain why we can safely walk the dark streets at night. The Japanese value the group over the individual. Japanese people are "we" conscious. "Their identity is based on the social system to which they belong (Dimensions of Culture)."

Japan, a collectivist culture, is also a shame culture. When a person does something wrong it not only reflects poorly on them but also on their family or the group to which they belong. Japanese are brought up to respect their families and in-groups. They do not want to do anything to reflect negatively on them. 

Collectivist cultures put high priority on these relationships in contrast to individualistic cultures which put high priority on tasks. The Japanese spend more time building friendships than western cultures. 

People, relationships and the community is important to the Japanese. It is reflected in the feeling of security when traveling in their neighborhoods and their country.

For another take on this subject, read the following article.

http://www.slate.com/articles/news_and_politics/crime/2011/03/stop_thief_thank_you.html

Day 9 - May 24 - Toji Temple

Day 9 Photographs

Today was a treat. Hillary journeyed with us to the temple and taught us about Buddhas. iconography and some history. 

Hillary explained the purpose and significance of pagodas. They are reliquaries, a place to store and protect ancient relics. They are derived from the Stupa in India, which are mounds of dirt with a wooden timber down the center. At the bottom of the wooden pillar are the relics. There is a stick that comes out of the mound to show its location.

The pagodas are similar. They can have several different stories. The pagoda at Toji has five. It is a National Treasure from the Edo period. In Japan, all numbers have some sort of significance.

The pagodas have a heart timber, shinbashira, running down the center of the structure, which is very sturdy. It is able to withstand earthquakes. How the shinbashira does this has been studied, "Indeed, far from carrying the building’s main loads, as the trunk of a tree does, the shinbashira—made from precious straight-grained Japanese cypress—is not even rooted in the soil. In some instances, it dangles freely above the ground; in others, it merely rests lightly on the foundations or second floor.

Even more strangely, the individual floors of a pagoda are not rigidly attached to those immediately above and below." Read more ... http://www.economist.com/node/14156084?story_id=14156084&fsrc=nwl

At the bottom of the timber under the ground are the relics.

On the first floor of the pagoda are the directional Buddhas, all with different mudra, the hand positions of the Buddha. Directional Buddha’s are very important for protection.

The Buddha’s are surrounded by their eight followers.

The process of creating the sculptures is very labor intensive. The sculptures are crafted from several pieces of wood and fitted together. They are then covered with lacquer soaked cloth. After this dries they are covered with gold foil.

The buildings and sculptures took many years to construct. As Taka said about Ryonji temple, "We use a thousand year old tree so the building lasts one thousand years."

Culturally speaking, Japanese are long-term thinkers and planners. This is clear when you see all of the magnificent buildings and sculptures that are still standing and intact. The materials chosen are extremely important as well as the craftsmanship.

Perhaps, the Buddhist religion in which followers are reborn encourages followers to think long-term. By preparing for the future of the children, grandchildren and others, they are also preparing for their next future. The belief in reincarnation fosters long-term thinking in the culture.

Day 8 - May 23 - Ryoanji Temple, Kinkakuji Temple

Day 8 Photographs

Sabi - a slightly bleak quality suggesting age, deterioration and the passage of time.

A mountain village
Where there is not even hope
Of a visitor,
If not for the lonliness,
How painful life here would be. 

Saigyo

Sabi can be used to refer to scenes that are desolate and melancholy. One explanation of sabi translates it as the "bloom of time." Buddhists often think of loneliness as sabi. As such they feel it is part of the human condition and that humans should just resign themselves to it. This creates a sad feeling that is sabi. It can also be an aesthetic term that is used to describe the passage of time, patina, the rust of age or the wearing of wood.

Stairs on Mount Daimonji

These stairs can illustrate sabi both as loneliness and as the passage of time. The stairs are on a lonely stretch of mountain. The form of stairs represents human activity and as such creates a feeling of melancholy. The stairs are also worn from the elements over time. This creates a feeling of impermanence, the stairs will continue to be here long after we are gone.

Pindola at Todaiji

The Pindola figure is especially sabi since it is in the form of a human and shows the ravages of time. The cloth makes it seem precious and especially sad since it appears to wear baby's clothes. The result is a rather grotesque figure that evokes sadness for the inevitability of aging.

The Buddha at Todaiji

The Buddha and Temple at Todaiji evoke the aesthetic sabi. The paint and gold leaf have flaked off the statue and the pillars. This also gives a feeling of the passage of time and impermanence.

Jizo stones at Kinkakuji Temple garden.

There are many jizo stones that exhibit the passage of time. Jizo stones are supposed to have the face of Buddha carved into them. Most that I have seen are completely worn away. This creates a sad feeling since nothing can stay the same. Everything changes.

Dark, Rainy, Neon, Voices

While walking through Osaka airport to the vans outside, it was dark and had just rained. I could still hear female Japanese voices over the PA system and I couldn't help but think of the movie Blade Runner.

Well, Hello Kitty!

Before I signed up for this trip, I really didn't know much about Japan. I would not have been able to discuss the truthfulness of the stereotypes illustrated in this clip.

Short Video Clips - Train Ride from Nara to Kyoto

View the changing landscape from Nara to Kyoto via the JR Line.

Day 6 - May 21 - Todaiji Temple, Nara, Japan - May 21

Day 6 Photographs

Hierarchy

In Japan, dress and uniforms illustrate the visual culture of class, gender and occupation. Earlier in
history, different classes were differentiated by the elaborateness of their dress. Today, dress differentiates the status of occupations through uniforms. This includes public servants, car station attendants, school children, teachers, street cleaners, etc.

School children in middle school uniforms.

School children in grade school uniforms.

A Geisha in Gion.

Still true today, more prestigious occupations wear finer clothing, alerting others to their higher status.

Geisha and courtesans wore identifying make-up and had very refined manners and mannerisms that identified them. There are still geisha today that wear the traditional clothing and makeup. They are also still skilled at entertaining and refined conversation.

Business woman in short suit and high heels.

Modern Japanese women dress ultra feminine. Many wear short skirts and high heels. During this trip, I have even seen Japanese women wearing high heels while hiking or sightseeing at temples.

In the past, it was very important for the Japanese to be properly dressed. It was also a shame upon the clan to be unkempt. I would say that this is still true today. From the children in their neat school uniforms to the street cleaner uniforms to the ultra feminine clothes of Japanese women, cleanliness and neatness is still extremely important.

Day 5 - May 20 -Tenryuji Temple, Bamboo Forest and Monkey Park - May 20

Day 5 Photographs

Tenryuji Temple, Garden and Bamboo Forest

 A Little History

Tenryuji Temple is the most important temple in Kyoto's Arashiyama district located in the northwest region of Kyoto. Tenryuji was ranked first among the city's five great Zen temples, and is now registered as a world heritage site. Tenryuji is the head temple of its own school within the Rinzai Zen sect of Japanese Buddhism.

Built in 1339 by the ruling shogun, Ashikaga Takauji, Tenryuji was originally dedicated to the Emperor Go-Daigo, who had just passed away. The two important historic figures used to be allies until Takauji turned against the emperor in a struggle for supremacy over Japan. By building the temple, Takauji intended to appease the former emperor's spirits.

Tenryuji Temple interior

Viewing the Past

Many temples including Tenryuji featured a painted dragon on the ceiling in one of their main buildings to protect the temple complex from fire. Tenryuji's dragon was not able to completely protect it throughout the years. Many of Tenryuji's buildings, were repeatedly lost in fires and wars over the centuries -- a common occurrence with most of Japan's temples. As Hillary explained to the class, most of the temples contain a mix or artifacts, sculptures and buildings that have been replaced or rebuilt due to destruction in fire or wars. The difference in time period for the art and sculptures can be seen through observation of the paint (does it appear new or is it missing and flaking off?), the appearance of the wood (Is some of it newer? Does it look like a different type of wood?) and the sculptural style, especially apparent in faces (Does the face look simplified or is it detailed and very life-like?).  These visual clues can tell a visitor much about the history of the temple. In Tenryuji's case, most of the current halls, including the main hall (Hojo), drawing hall (Shoin) and temple kitchen (Kuri) with its distinctive small tower, date from the relatively recent Meiji Period (1868-1912).

Unlike the temple buildings, Tenryuji's garden survived the centuries in its original form. Created by the famous garden designer Muso Soseki, who also designed the gardens of Kokedera and other important temples, the beautiful landscape garden features a central pond surrounded by rocks, pine trees and the forested Arashiyama mountains.

Shakkei

In Japan, there is an old garden concept which means "borrowed scenery." Designer Soseki did not stop designing the Tenryuji garden at the hedge or the space after the hedge, he went beyond and incorporated the Arashiyama mountains into his garden. The article, The Lateral View, explains this Japanese concept well, "The hand of the Japanese reaches out and enhances that which is most distant." 

The Arashiyama mountains make a beautiful "addition" to the Tenryuji garden.

The Tenryuji garden central pond with shakkei.

Anything can become nature. To the Japanese this means the human touch. Shaping what is naturally present to make it more exposed, more observable. The Japanese make nature more observable by removing excess, planting just one or placing one rock carefully in a field of moss. This human touch or placement exposes the bark on the tree, emphasizes the bush next to the stream and makes obvious the surface of the rock. The Japanese touch removes the distractions so the observer can truly "see."

The Tenryuji Temple garden is largely unchanged since the 14th century.

A well-placed dramatic splash of color in the Tenryuji garden.

Mono No Aware

Nature and the contemplation of nature is important to Japanese people. This awareness of nature, the changing seasons and the cycle of life that highlights the beauty of the world is called mono no aware. The appreciation for nature reminds observers that change is the only constant. It reminds viewers of what is truly important in their lives.  

A view into the garden reminds visitors of the constant changing nature of life.

Views into the garden are important for mono no aware. The reminder of constant change should always be present in order to "remove the distractions" of everyday life. Much like the garden, the mind needs constant pruning or the human touch to keep it focused.

Yugen 

Tenryuji Temple is special since it has on it's north edge the Bamboo Forest. The Bamboo Forest is beautiful and mysterious. Yugen is defined as mystery and depth. The mystery can be complex or subtle. I would argue the Bamboo Forest has both. Yugen can be visual or conceptual and also refers to  a sense of darkness.

The forest appears on the north side of the temple. It isn't very big and opens into forested walkways that can take visitors into the forest or along the river. It is unique to the area, a specially crafted jewel. Simple and elegant. Not too long, not too short. Just perfect for appreciating it's beauty and wanting more - then realizing it needs to end. Much like the temple garden, distractions have been stripped away. No signage, even the fence lining the forest is a natural thing of beauty not to distract from the beauty of the bamboo. 

The Bamboo Forest.

The forest adds mystery or yugen to Tenryuji Temple.

Tenryuji Temple is the perfect temple in Japan to learn to understand Japanese aesthetics: one stands for the many, yugen and shakkei among other visual principles. This is the temple where I truly understood the Japanese human touch or shaping of nature. It took me awhile to understand how shaping nature by  removing parts of it was considered being in harmony with it. I can say that I am finally understanding the concept of removing distractions in order to observe or focus. As with many things in Japan, nature reflects the realities of the human. And, at Tenryuji one can see how the garden can be a reflection of a well tended mind.

Day 4 - May 19 - Mt Diamoji

Day 4 Photographs

Elegance - "The elegance of simplicity--beauty to be found in the texture and grain of wood and stone, in visible architectural structure, also in the precise stroke of the inked brush, the perfect judo throw, the rightness of the placing of a single flower (Richie, 2007)."

First set of stairs on Mount Daimonji.

Second set of stairs on Mount Daimonji.

Third set of stairs on Mount Daimonji.

As I hiked up Mount Daimonji, I was surprised by the sets of stairs we encountered. I have never encountered cement stairs while hiking in the United States. While I made my ascent, I tried to determine why I found the stairs so curious. 

The experience was different from hiking in the United States in several ways. The hike was very strenuous and could be considered dangerous especially for the elderly. But the Japanese hikers we encountered ranged in age from very young to very old. In general, Japanese are in harmony with nature as opposed to Americans who try to conquer nature. This was apparent to me in the age range of hikers and number of students that were there on school outings. Apparently, strenuous hiking was an important part of education and people's lives.

Also, in the United States, it seems that many trails are switchback, snaking back and forth over the mountain. On this Japanese mountain, the solution was simple. Straight up in a simple line. The shortest   distance between two points. No handrails. No signage. 

Very simple. Very elegant.

A conscious design decision on the side of a mountain.

Day 3 - May 18 - Ginkakuji Temple, Philosopher's Path and Gion

Day 3 Photographs

Ga - Neatness, propriety, elegance (as defined by Gion Nakai)

(Richie, 2007)

"Japanese culture became structured with its aesthetic values at the center. Aesthetic concerns often prvailed even over religious beliefs and duties."
Kato Shuichi

Great thought is given to design in Japan even to nature. Their hands inform how they see and experience nature in their world.

The paths on approach to temples is simple yet sets the stage for contemplation and awareness.

Inside the temple gardens, I have noticed on many of the paths, especially stairs, the stones are uneven and the landings unevenly spaced. I have to assume this is intentional - a desire to keep the participant engaged in the garden experience. It would be difficult to text and safely walk in Japan.

Garden paths are not designed as a mindless way to pass time. They are designed to keep the participant alert and thoughtful about life.  This is accomplished with the incorporation of wishing ponds, flowering plants and trees, sand gardens and overlook resting places.

The wishing ponds remind visitors to reflect on the abundance and blessings in their lives as they search their minds for their wish. The beauty of these ponds are a wonderful place to realize how little you are lacking in life. This opens your eyes to truly see the beauty of the garden.

Walkway leading to Ginkakuji Temple.

The flowering plants reflect the seasons and the passage of time which is very important in the Japanese culture. Often in the gardens there will be a few trees surrounded by moss and a few well placed rocks. Compared to American gardens where there can be many trees and many flowers - in Japan abundance is unnecessary. "The one may stand for the all--less is always more (Richie, 2007)."

Sand garden along the Philosopher's Path.

Day 2 - May 17 - Meditation Class, Tea Ceremony and Neighborhood Tour, Sanjusangendo Temple, Kiyomizudera Temple

Day 2 Photographs

Wabi Sabi


Wabi - A cultivated aesthetic that finds beauty in simplicity and an impoverished rusticity.


Sabi - A slightly bleak quality suggesting age, deterioration and the passage of time.
(Richie, 2007)

"If a man were never to fade away . . . but lingered on forever in the world, how things would lose their power to move us. The most precious thing in life is its uncertainty."
Yoshida Kenko

Taka told us that the tea ceremony is a chance to "live in the moment." Treat your guests with the best etiquette, food, tea and environment, as if it is the first and last time you will see them. This is an example of wabi sabi.

The tea ceremony itself is simple and finds pleasure and beauty in using worn tea bowls that have been colored through the passing of many hands and some even cracks in the glaze. The tea storage containers are also "decorated" through touch and lifestyle, making every container different.

Our class at the Shunkoin Temple tea ceremony.

Treating your guests with the best doesn't necessarily mean amount or excessive decoration. In Japan it often means simple beauty and elegance.


The Temple

Also Shunkoin Temple built in 1590 is filled with examples of wabi sabi. The sliding door panels are built of light cedar and paper. The large sliding doors are crafted from one cedar tree. The huge pillars are crafted from one cypress trunk. The floor is crafted from flexible and strong red pine. All of these materials show the signs of age, sunlight and touch. Taka said in order to think about the creation of the temple, you also need to think about the many years it took for the trees to grow -- that this is also part of Shunkoin's story.

The cedar and paper door screens surround the room supported by massive wooden pillars. 

The gardens throughout the temple complex are symbols of change, deterioration and beauty. Seasons are greatly appreciated in Japan because they are fleeting and signify the passage of time - the passage of our lives.

These flowers in the Shunkoin Temple garden are a reminder of impermanence.

Day 1 - May 16 - Travel and Orientation

Day 1 Photographs

After a very long day of travel, we finally arrived.

Shunkoin Temple

The next morning, we were welcomed by Taka and given a tour of Shunko-in Temple and the neighborhood. Taka began by explaining where shoes are and are not allowed, and how to position them when leaving them in the "outside" area. Leaving shoes with heels facing the wooden platform lined up straight and even is proper etiquette. It shows that a person is a good student and has respect for herself and the place they are visiting.

Entrance to Shunkoin Temple

 Proper etiquette is important because Japan is a communal society instead of individualistic like the United States. In a communal society, improper etiquette reflects on the larger group: UNL, a family or an institution. In an individualistic society bad behavior can be directly attributed to the person committing the infraction.

Taka also said that zen is about everything you do; living in the moment and being present in every activity or task. I particularly like this reminder since I am American and living in a fast culture where multitasking is expected. Being hyper-connected and extremely busy can make living in the moment difficult.

Shunkoin Temple garden

The grounds of the Temple Complex are serene yet bustling with activity. Schoolchildren, monks, visitors, bikers and even cars travel these paths. The order and cleanliness of the complex grounds help to focus the mind and instill calmness. This path is an example of shin, objects shaped by man. The stones are orderly--not left to chance or nature. The pebbles lining either side of the path are so--objects left to nature. They are in no particular order or pattern. Throughout the temple complex there are conscious design decisions down to small details using different combinations of shin, go and gyo.

South walkway of Temple complex

This path is also an example of so, objects left to nature. This path is located on the Philosopher's Path.

Stone stairs on the Philosopher's Path

26 Hours

This video illustrates some of my feelings on traveling to Japan. It seems like it takes forever but in reality is it so fast. My body was here for a few days before my mind could comprehend that I was in a different country. At first I felt like I was just in a weird American neighborhood.